What Makes A Good Burger?

What Makes A Good Burger?

 

A simple question that seemingly invokes a complicated answer when posed, even controversy at times.  Perhaps if we could look to the sole source, the originator of the hamburger, the answer we seek could be found.  But the origination of the hamburger is controversial in and of itself.  There are no less than 3 proclaimers of its invention here in America all around the relatively same time period, including one of them being from Hamburg, New York.   Controversy aside, we know that at some point ground up steak was flattened, cooked, and placed between bread slices and this invention made its way here and has became a staple of American cuisine. 

 

I would like to say that I have solved the answer to this question and am prepared to share it here, but the complete answer still eludes me somewhat.  What I can share are some basic rules of a good burger that we may all agree upon and perhaps share some tips that I have learned (from mistakes I have made) on my quest to one day create the perfect burger. 

 

1.  Moo!

  

True enough.  You can make "burgers" out of salmon, turkey, elk, sausage, and so on, but a real all American burger comes from a cow.  And a better burger is made from ground chuck and not ground beef.  Reason: you really do not know what you are going to get with ground beef.  It is the left over beef and fat from processing.  It's fairly unregulated and so there is inconsistency in what you are purchasing. But, USDA regulations are that if it is labeled as "chuck" or "sirloin" then this the only part of the cow that is ground up and packaged.  Chuck comes from the shoulder region and is between 80-85% lean, or 15-20% fat.  Fat is good.  It is what makes the flavor and juicy goodness of a good burger.   

 

Even though it may only be chuck in the package, it does not mean it came from the same cow.  Commercial processing gets all mixed together.  If you want your meat to come from one cow, you will probably have to buy that cow from a farmer or rancher and have it processed locally.  Another option for knowing what you are really buying is to select your steak and either grind it up yourself or have the store butcher do it. 

 

About the only other thing I will say about beef is that organic is better.  There is a distinct difference in the taste of beef from one that is commercially raised and processed than one that is void of hormone steroids, antibiotics, etc. 

 

2.  Keep It Cold

 

Keep the beef in the fridge and as cold as possible until you are ready to form your patties.  Then form them quickly and get to cooking.  When the beef gets warm it becomes pliable and the fat begins to break down and will adhere to your hands and to your working surface.  This is bad.  You need the fat for juiciness and if it is on your hands it is not in the burger - which means your burgers are going to be dry. 

 

3.  Don't Over Handle

 

Yes, you can over handle the beef.  The more you pull, pinch, and knead the more you change it structurally.  This also takes time which means your beef is getting warm and we already discussed what happens then. Over kneading will dry your beef out and make your patties tough.  Just one or two pats and move on.   

 

But what about adding onions, peppers, cheese crumbles, bread crumbs, and whatever else to the beef?  Go ahead if you are making a meatloaf sandwich.  Again, you are structurally changing the beef when you do so and will have a harder time keeping the formed patty to stay, well, formed.  It also requires a lot of kneading and handling which, as we have discussed, will pull the fat out. 

 

4.  Conformity

 

Conformity.  Consistency.  Formed patties should be the same size and weight.  If not, it is going to make your job of cooking consistency very difficult.  The only way to accomplish this is to measure somehow.  You can use a food scale but then you still have to form the patty and you can still have inconsistency in thickness.  Therefore, I prefer to use a hamburger press.  The one I use is made of iron and the top screws up and down to adjust for the desired size of the patty.  Some wax paper and a little spray oil is all you need and this prevents my warm hands from over handling the beef which causes a breakdown in the fat.  Patties come out well formed and consistently sized every time. 

 

And when doing larger patties (1/3 pound or bigger) you may have experienced the patties to draw up into a ball.  You can avoid this by simply making a dimple on one side.  Use your thumb or a 1/4 tsp measuring spoon to make the indentation. 

 

 

I really do not understand the science behind this little trick, I just know that it works.  

 

 

5.  Seasoning

 

Absolutely seasoning is needed and even required.  There are not many rules when it comes to seasoning the beef but there are a few that need emphasizing. 

 

One, do not mix the seasoning into the meat.  You will never get it consistently mixed through out and you will only over handle it trying.  If your goal is to have it mixed into the meat, the only proper way to do so is to do it as you are grinding the meat.  But most people do not have a meat grinder so just season the formed patties right before cooking them. 

 

Two, season liberally.  I never worry about over seasoning.  I worry more about what seasoning I am using.  It doesn't have to be elaborate.  In Austin, Texas, BBQ rub consists of salt, pepper, and ground cayenne; that's it.   At the very least use salt and pepper.  I prefer fresh cracked pepper from my pepper mill as opposed to ground pepper from a store bought shaker.  Much more flavorful.  And use either Kosher salt or sea salt that is coarsely ground.  It is easier to take a pinch and control even distribution.  Whether you are using your own seasoning blend or one you purchase, season each side just before cooking.  It is really a matter of taste. 

 

Three,  never mix salt into the meat.  Salt immediately starts breaking down the protein and absorbs the fat.  Breaking down protein means altering the texture.  Absorbing fat means drying out the meat.  Salt is the last thing you want to sprinkle on the patties and you want to do it just before cooking. 

 

Another tip: spray or brush on oil onto the formed patties.  This will help the seasoning stay on the meat while cooking.  It also adds a little more fat which is good for flavor and moistness. 

 

6.  Made To Order

 

A big part of what makes a good burger is that it is prepared to your specifications.  We all want what we want.  You are not going to get that at a fast food joint where they are just cranking out crap.  But you should be able to get a burger cooked the way you want it at a restaurant...and at a backyard cookout.  The most important part of the "how do you want yours" is correctly assessing the burger's doneness.  I've heard the boastful claims of using the finger test to gage the rareness or wellness of burgers and steaks.  "It's an art" so said.  Whelp, if true they are better than I then.  Me, I don't trust that method and who wants someone fingering all their food?  I have no idea where your finger has been. 

 

The only accurate way I know of for gaging internal cooking temperature is using a digital thermometer.   For goodness sakes, DO NOT cut into the burger (same for steaks).  You lose all the juiciness when you do so.  Digital thermometers range in prices from about $15 to $150.  It just depends on what you are using them for.  I have several.  Most of mine were bought for competition BBQ and smoking several different types of meat at one time.  I even have one that has a remote reader so I can be inside watching TV while monitoring temperatures.  You do not need any thing like these for just cooking burgers and steaks.  A simple probe and digital read out will suffice.  The less costly ones take a little longer to register and report temperatures but that is okay. 

 

As a general rule:

 

120 degrees is rare, red center, a little bloody.

 

140 degrees is medium, slightly pink center with gray. 

 

160 degrees is well done, all gray, minimal juice from fat rendering. 

 

My personal preference is medium rare (approximately 130 degree internal temperature).  It will be more pink in the center and very juicy.  With a digital thermometer you can cook yours and everyone else's made to order so to speak. 

 

Now how to cook the burger, griddle versus grill, I am really not going to get into here.  I love them both ways. 

 

7.  Juicy

 

Sorry char heads, meat should be juicy and this includes burgers.  A quick recap of things to do to ensure the juiciest burgers possible according to your liking:

 

1.  Form patties when the beef is at its coldest thawed temperature and then cook immediately.

2.  Do not over handle.

3.  Make a dimple. 

4.  Do not overcook.  Which means using a digital thermometer and not cutting into the burger patty. 

 

Another thing I can suggest here is to not beat your meat with a spatula while it is cooking.  Again, as the fat renders and the protein begins breaking down the larger patties may start to draw up and become more round then flat.  The tendency is to flatten them out by pounding them with your utensils.  You can only apply a little pressure and it is what it is.  If you over press your are pressing out all the fat which is the juice and flavor of the burger.  But now that you know the dimple trick, this will be a thing of the past. 

 

And I am not sure this tip fits here or under another category, but it's okay to flip.  Flip out!  Unlike BBQ where the rule is to never peek under the hood for the first 3 hours (it extends smoking time by at least 20 minutes each time you do), burgers you can peek and flip as much as you want really.  It really does not take that long to cook a burger and probably the more you flip them the more consistently cooked the burger will be on each side and throughout.   We have probably all made the mistake of leaving the grill and getting distracted only to slightly char one side and then put those patties charred side down on the platter to disguise them.  I cannot be the only one that has done that.  So when you are finally ready to cook your burgers, stand there, keep distractions to a minimum, and flip a way. 

 

7.  Don't Underestimate The Bun

 

A hamburger just isn't a hamburger unless it is on a bun (or at least between slices of bread).  It's how the originator, whichever one it was, invented it.  But it has to be the right bun for the right hamburger.  You do not want a bun too wimpy to handle the load and you do not want a bun that overpowers the patty or dwarfs it.  It is a delicate balance because the bun can make or break the hamburger.  If you are making smaller patties or sliders then a small white bread bun will suffice.  Larger burgers with toppings will take a sturdier bun or roll.    Butter your bun of choice and lightly toast it making the inside warm and supple and the outside slightly crunchy.

 

8.  Unlimited Toppings

 

If you like it, then pile it on.  There are no rules to toppings and you shouldn't let anyone discourage you from putting whatever you want on your burger.  It is a matter of taste and the flavor profile you want to make. And you can be as creative as you like too.  The combinations are endless.  When you think of the classic hamburger it consists of lettuce, tomato, onion, pickle, and cheese.  Just think about all the varieties there are for each of these toppings.

 

Lettuce: iceberg, romaine, spinach, green leaf, red leaf, kale...

Tomato: beefsteak, heirloom, plum, roma, and hundreds of other varieties...

Onion: white, yellow, red, pickled, grilled, sautéed...

Pickle: bread & butter, dill, gherkin, sour pickle, sweet pickle, relish...

Cheese: American, cheddar, pepper jack, provolone, feta, goat, blue cheese...

 

I only listed the basics for a classic style burger. These do not account for toppings like bacon, mushrooms, avocado, cream cheese, peppers; just to name a few. Sauces or condiments are also important and even the basics: catsup, mustard, and mayo have many different varieties. 

 

Toppings can be as simple or complex as you want to make them.  The trick (and fun) is finding the right combination of each that pulls it all together to complement your patty. 

 

And there you have it.  Some thoughts about what makes a good burger and some tips that I have learned along the way.  Do you agree?  What am I missing?  Please post your comments and suggestions.  I would love to hear from you. 

 

Time to get grilling!  I have hamburgers to make.